[Captain]

is anybody now how to install quick disconnect adaptor?

We will need a lot more information than this.
What is on either end of the adaptor?
What are you using it for?
What do you want to mount it too?

A picture of the adaptor says more than words.

 

[xplod]

I am using optimate 4 almost for a year on 9t and gtl.

first I was using it only for 9t through accessory plug and connector came with the charger with the can-bus program. then I bought the gtl and tried to charge it through accessory plug too. it was charging that as well, but I realized a relay clicking sound regularly every few minutes during the charge period of 30 minutes which I never heard similar clicking sound on 9t. not to wear the relay off, I decided to connect the SAE connector which also came with the charger directly to the battery of gtl and charge the battery with non can-bus program.

since I was using one charger for two bikes, switching from one to another every day, it was not so handy to change the charging program of optimate 4 and changing the cable adapter for each bike, I bought another sae connector for 9t as well and happily charging both of the bikes with one charger ever since.

conclusion;
optimate 4 successfully switches on the auxiliary port on 9t (and most probably all bmw bikes with can-bus) and charges the battery without need to make a direct connection to it. but I don't believe its really necessary to pay that much to a charger unless you think you may need to desulphate a flat battery. which in that case the battery must be disconnected from the electronics of the bike and the charger must be connected directly and only to the battery.

note: the relay clicking sound I heard on gtl was not present on 9t most probably because of high current protected solid state design (there is no fuse on our bikes, remember?) on 9t's.

 

[Paddyk]

Hope I'm in the right place. Great forum. Just picked up an R ninet. I was out on my second ride and 45 min in the bike stops and the battery light comes on. It started with a bit of a struggle and then happened twice more. I brought her straight home and after reading these posts ordered an optimate4. Just plugged it in tonight so hopefully that will solve the issue.

 

[BaldyDave]

Hi Paddyk, the optimate 4 is a good charger to have and if anything will charge and save a dodgy battery, the Optimate will. In this case I suspect there is a fair chance that either the charging system or (far more likely) the battery may be faulty. The Optimate might fix it but even if a replacement battery is needed, the charger will maintain the replacement by keeping it topped up properly.

How old is your bike? Might be covered by warranty if it is battery failure or a charging problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Paddyk]

Hi Dave. 2015. 1700 miles. It's no harm to have the charger anyway but like you I think it is more than likely the battery. I read a few posts back about a batch of bad batteries, good possibility that's what the issue is. Especially after riding for a while you'd think it would charge a low battery? And it gave no failure to start before I got on it? I'm going back to Ireland next week so with work and getting ready I won't get much of a chance to test it out. At least it will be charging ��

 

[Zapman]

Hi there,

I received my R nine T last Friday. Can you show with a picture the point where you have the negative connected?

The positive is very simple (under the seat) but the negative.

Regards

Marco

Hey Jugg, you won't need a step by step as you are already half way there.
Attach your (+) to either one of the red positive posts that you have found; they are connected so doesn't matter which one.
The motor and frame are both grounded to the negative side of the battery, so any point direct to motor/frame is ok; (beware of plastic guards and spacers though).
I have my (-) under one of the screws just towards the rear of the ECU box. The lead follows the upper frame tube and it all tucks away neatly. The screws are either side about where the back of the rider's seat is.

I have the SAE connector poking out on the RHS to the side of the plastic airbox. And when I'm not using it, I tuck it into the slot down the side of the same plastic airbox; don't know why the gap is there, but is handy for this.

Hope this is all clear.

 

[Captain]

Can you show with a picture the point where you have the negative connected?

Hi Marco,
I got the below picture off the web to show you, this is not an actual picture of my bike!
I have pointed to the screws I have used.
Please note: make sure you attach your lead under the plastic bar so that it touches the frame. You may even have to scratch off a little bit of the frame paint to get a good earth.
Then you can run your lead back along the side towards the battery.
Hope this helps. :smile:

 

[rkevwill]

Ya know, you could take the simpleton way out like I did. Buy an Optimate 4, and just put it into the can bus/powerlet, or whatever plug, and let it do its job all by itself. Its even simple enough for me to figure out. I bought one after having to use my Sears battery charger once cause I let the battery run down by being stupid.

 

[roadrunner]

Ya know, you could take the simpleton way out like I did. Buy an Optimate 4, and just put it into the can bus/powerlet, or whatever plug, and let it do its job all by itself. Its even simple enough for me to figure out. I bought one after having to use my Sears battery charger once cause I let the battery run down by being stupid.

or you can just buy a lithium battery that holds a charge for 12 months! Can't believe riders still stuff around with AGM batteries and battery chargers etc.

 

[Paddyk]

I brought my bike in to check out the bike cutting out and battery warning flashing after driving for 45 min. Good news it was the battery, bad news BMW only covers the battery for 24 months from date of sale. I missed by 2 weeks. Anyway, just a heads up for anyone out there with the same problem

 

[BaldyDave]

I brought my bike in to check out the bike cutting out and battery warning flashing after driving for 45 min. Good news it was the battery, bad news BMW only covers the battery for 24 months from date of sale. I missed by 2 weeks. Anyway, just a heads up for anyone out there with the same problem

Only 2 weeks? Surely some form of goodwill gesture could have been made by the dealer. At least a discount on the battery? Even free fitting?

 

[Paddyk]

That's what I said, two weeks, come on. They said it had do to be logged in and they couldn't do anything. No discount but a charge for diagnosing the problem, ha. Good job I love this bike

 

[BaldyDave]

Time to find a new dealer, I think.....

A little bit go goodwill from the dealer would have gone a long way in this instance I expect......

 

[Paddyk]

Probably if I had bought it from them. As I bought it second hand, I was just any Joe Schmoe coming into them. Still?

 

[Mr. Lee]

Save yourself the headache and just go buy a new battery yourself.

 

[yelorhino]

hi,
i have been meaning to ask.
What kind of battery do we have in this ride.
One of these days i have to read the manuel but for now i figured i would ask if it is a
sealed lead, or sealed lithium, gel?, anything, etc. ( boy do i hope its sealed) i havent even thought about this simple maintenance

agm

 

[Petrolpants]

Hello,
I haven't used the bike in two months and need to charge it.
(I know I should have tender charged, but I had not access to the bike)

So, here is the question.
At the place I'm now. I have access to this charger:

With only those 'clam' connectors.

The specifics of the charger:
DC 6 V = 0,45 A, DC 12 V = 0,7 A
DC 6 V = 3,7–30 Ah, DC 12 V = 3,7–30 Ah
Fuse: 10 A


Can I use this charger with the clamps without removing the battery?
If yes, where should i clamp down?

 

[BillB]

Hello,
Can I use this charger with the clamps without removing the battery?
If yes, where should i clamp down?

It seems like it should be ok for a short-term charge. A rough rule of thumb for charging AGM batteries is AH/10 for charging rate,e.g. a 14AH battery should be charged at no more than 1.4 amps. The Max 8A and the 10A fuse have me concerned about how much current this charger will actually supply. Keep an eye on it and don't cook the battery.

See your manual for charging locations: under the seat for the positive terminal, clutch side chrome peg on cylinder for negative.

 

[Mr. Lee]

I would think just clamp it onto the terminals. Sucks you will to lift the tank.

 

[geir__]

Hi Marco,
I got the below picture off the web to show you, this is not an actual picture of my bike!
I have pointed to the screws I have used.
Please note: make sure you attach your lead under the plastic bar so that it touches the frame. You may even have to scratch off a little bit of the frame paint to get a good earth.
Then you can run your lead back along the side towards the battery.
Hope this helps. :smile:

Hi

I have always learned that I should disconnect the negative from the battery before i remove the positive wire because a spark can harm the electronics (maybe this is wrong?). It is a litte work to get access to the battery on this bike. Can I just disconnect connect the positive (red) wire under the seat and connect the charger wire to this terminal without harming the electronics?